The River Chelt from source to mouth

As the River Chelt has recently threatened to burst its banks yet again, I thought I should share a recent obsession – to show what the River Chelt is really like, compared to how its perceived. Without it, the town would not be here, but in recent times it has seemed unable to comprehend this streak of wildness flowing through its heart.

Having had three jobs within 200m of the banks of the Chelt, I have spent many a lunchtime getting some fresh air alongside it, and had thought vaguely about photographing it. Then recently a friend of mine talked about an exhibition he was thinking of putting on – and that gave me the impetus I needed. The results are in a slideshow on flickr here, but I thought I would whet your appetite first.

Source of the River Chelt in Dowdeswell Woods

The River Chelt has its main springs above the Dowdeswell Reservoir. The wildest of these is up in the woods on the south side of Cleeve Hill. Others are on the opposite side of the valley, around Upper Dowdeswell, and have a more domesticated air: indeed an ancient disused well by one of them suggests that the village was probably built around the spring.

Upper reaches of the River Chelt

Exploring the upper reaches of the river has been a particular treat: I’ve been amazed how lovely and scenic it actually is. Here’s a pic of it near Wellinghill House. The wild garlic also gives it an appearance of lushness – as well as providing the area its own unique smell…

River Chelt near Wellinghill

The Chelt is known as a ‘flashy’ river, because for much of the year it seems like a small, undistinguished stream. However, as the recent rains have shown, it can quickly become full and fast – more obviously a potential river. This is in large part due to the lie of the land in the Dowdeswell valley, which funnels a number of tributaries into the Chelt. This is then added to by others which run off the Cotswold escarpment.

One of these, the Lilley Brook, arises less than a mile north of Seven Springs – a location renowned as a source of the Thames. Instead, the Lilley Brook flows north-west and joins the Chelt in a well-kept garden in Charlton Kings, almost doubling the river’s size.

The Lilley Brook merging into the River Chelt in Charlton Kings.

River Chelt at Sandford Mill

It’s partly for this reason that flood prevention is particularly important just downstream of this junction. Nevertheless the 2007 floods showed that a flashy river is capable of defying most schemes…

Shortly after, the River Chelt flows through Sandford Mill. Two mills in the area were recorded in the Domesday Book, and this may have been one of them: the site is no later than 1615, when it is first named unequivocally. Sandford Mill is no longer operational but the building is still there, and the area is unusually attractive.

So, what do you think the town does with a river which is such a key part of its origins and geography? It buries it. The river is hidden away after it leaves Sandford Park, passing the Rodney Road car park behind brick walls, disapearing completely under the town itself. It is only permitted to emerge into view again on the far side of Bayshill Road.

The River Chelt is hidden away under the town between Rodney Road and Bayshill Road.

Fortunately, thereafter the river is no longer treated as an embarrassment but as an asset, and there are a number of parks and walkways alongside it: along the back of St. George’s Road, then beyond Waitrose, and through Arle. Incidentally the Saxon name for the river was Alr, showing the antiquity of this part of modern Cheltenham and its deep connection with the river.

River Chelt going through the park at Arle

Just before leaving town it winds past a number of car dealerships. Although no longer hidden behind walls as it is in central Cheltenham, it’s another odd juxtaposition between the natural and commercial.

The reality, which for much of the time can be so easily missed, is that Cheltenham is situated in the floodplain of the Chelt. This reality becomes obvious as the river leaves the town and winds through Boddington (sliding past the manor), where the surrounding countryside approaching the Severn is very flat.

River Chelt near Barrow

The river flows past Barrow, a small village at the end of a lane, which you’d only ever go down if you deliberately intended to visit it. This may explain its air of remoteness: despite the nearness of the motorway and Cheltenham itself, it has a deeply rural feel to it. This is also where the Chelt is most obviously a ‘river’ and not just a stream.

River Chelt beyond Barrow

Nevertheless the River Chelt’s journey ends not long after this: its floodplain is shared with its giant neighbour, the Severn, which it joins at Wainlodes.

It’s a curious thought that a raindrop falling in Dowdeswell will find its way into the Chelt, and then flow via the Severn into the Atlantic; whereas if it were to fall half a mile to the south in Foxcote, it would drain into the Churn, merge into the Thames, and then empty into the North Sea. Much as we like to control things, sometimes it is small differences that can lead to radically different outcomes.

The full slideshow is here.

The River Chelt joining the Severn at Wainlodes

May 2012

57 thoughts on “The River Chelt from source to mouth

  1. Hi Richard. Pete Studd here (HighWater). I am involved with the “Love Your River Chelt” project. I came across your blog whilst searching for “River Chelt otters”. We are involved in cleaning up the Chelt, removing invasive plants, sampling invertebrates and checking water quality. We were on a stretch below where the Chelt flows under the Old Gloucester Road/Hayden Road to the north of Cheltenham half a mile from Bristol Street Motors. In the mud under the bridge were many footprints from otters!

  2. It is by accident i have found the river Chelt through a casual conversation .If as a Arle school boy i had been introduced to local historical knowledge plus local geography and the gravitational run off of a rain drop too two seas from the year 1086 i am sure i would have been a more interested student ” never to old to lern” ?

  3. Have recently lost several 20 / 30 lb Koi carp and about 20 goldfish. The bigger fish severely chewed, and just the odd bits of the smaller ones. Suspect otters from Chelt, but think they, (or it,) would have to travel about 100 meters along the A40 to reach my garden and then find a way through to the ponds. Anyone Sandford Mill area had similar problem?

  4. Pingback: The River Chelt – thephotostorysite

  5. The river Cheltenham travels further than you think !!! I am here in Thailand on my 62nd birthday reading your blog. When I was about 11 I think, various members of my school helped clear the banks between Coxes meadow and Sandford Park behind the fire station. I remember the Echo and the BBC came to film for the local news.

    Sadly the work was not maintained.

    There is also a brook that flows from the Battle down estate and under Charlton Court road, but then disappears. I assume that also joins the Chelt.

    • Hi Derek,

      Many thanks for the slow response – I’m chuffed that you’ve been reading the River Chelt page in Thailand! I think the river probably needs a lot of maintenance which depends upon the enthusiasm of volunteers. There are probably several tributaries of the Chelt further upstream – the one I saw was the Lilley Brook – was that the one you were mentioning?

      All the best
      Rich

      • Thanks for the reply. It would not be the Lilley Brook which flows from Leckhampton Hill and follows the route of the Cheltenham Cirencester road towards town. The brook I am talking about rises somewhere within the Battledown estate (possibly in the grounds of St Edmunds school) and follows the path of the A40 but disappears underground I think. It hardly appears on any maps and I cannot ascertain its name. It’s only existence seems to be acknowledged by the naming of a nearby street as “Brook Vale”

  6. Hi River Chelt lovers
    A couple of points if I may. First of all I believe the Chelt starts life the opposite side of the London Road to the reservoir, having been culverted under this main road. I have followed its course back from the reservoir to a spring on private farmland. This is confirmed on the pathfinder series of O.S. maps. Secondly the stream referred to by Derek is the Ham Brook which joins the Chelt immediately after it is culverted under the London road near the Ledmore area of Charlton Kings.
    Hope this helps.

    • I see the Ham Brook on the map which starts in the Ryeworth area and I can see where it would join the Chelt. However it is not my minor brook, which passes under Charlton Court road alongside Brook Vale. It’s probably too insignificant to be named !!

    • Hi Mike,

      Many thanks for your comments and sorry for the slow response. It all depends what one means by the source of the Chelt – there are several springs above the reservoir, I think I know the one you’re referring to, which was fairly unimpressive/ There are a couple which are just below Upper Dowdeswell – if memory serves me one has a well near it, and another further round is a real gusher, or at least it was much the most powerful on the day I was there. It would be worth photographing each of them. The one in Dowdeswell woods on this page was certainly the most photogenic, though a better photographer might do better with each of them!

      All the best
      Rich

  7. I’d like to know the location of the Lilley Brook meeting with the Chelt. With landowner’s permission I’d like to photograph it.
    Thanks
    Mike

    • On the map it is shown as meeting somewhere behind the Spirax Sarco grounds and the back of Charlton Drive, but it is not clear to me whether it is in private grounds or within the Coxes field area

  8. Hi Rich,
    The company I work for is doing a philanthropic project (we do one every year) that this year is called Sea Sieve, the idea being to design, build, prototype and then build a sieve to stop rubbish entering the sea via our rivers.
    I was wondering in your experience, does the Chelt struggle with floating rubbish and plastics? I have engaged with out local MP to see if there is any interest in us using the Chelt as an area to utilise prototypes and was wondering if they were happy for that where would be a good place to think about installing? After reading your information above it would seem somewhere towards Wainloads.
    Regards,
    Lee

    • Hi Lee, many thanks for your comment – I’m not the right person to ask about this, not least because I moved away from Cheltenham several years ago. The project does sound really interesting though. I think the best thing would be to walk the length of the river, I would suggest particularly the part that goes through the town where you’re most likely to see floating rubbish. Most of the route from Sandford Park out beyond Arle is fairly easy to navigate. All the best, Rich

  9. I remember as a kid in the 60s seeing the river Chelt Froth up like a bubble bath disgorging large clumps of foam which floated around Bath Road near to the then Tilleys Crumpets . I played in the foam until I was told it was poisonous..It probably wasn’t but never did find out what caused it

  10. It is so apt that I found your blogpost today as David Bellamy the great environmentalist died today. In 1984 I was teaching in Cheltenham and with a class I did a project on the river chelt from source to mouth. We entered our work in a national competition and WON! As part of our prize Favid Bellamy cam to our school and landed on our sports field in a helicopter. You can imagine the children’s delight.
    In memory of David Bellamy I am going to put our work into a blog post. I would love to share some of your findings and photos if you would be willing.

    • Hi – a lovely story! What a great idea – happy for you to share the findings & photos, but please reference and provide an appropriate link or two back to this blog. All the best, Rich

  11. I have lived with the River Chelt as a near neighbour for close on 30 years. I live on the George Readings estate, at the far end of Princess Elizabeth Way.

    I have regularly pointed out to people that that small steam/Brook is actually THE RIVER CHELT.

    Despite the wall that was built to protect us from floods, in 2007, the river broke through and several neighbours were flooded.

    Obviously not a good experience, but I can’t help a small smile when nature breaks through and shows who is really boss.

    • Thank you for your comments Suzanne. It’s interesting to realise how much more there is to the River Chelt than what flows through the centre of town. Yes, nature does have a way of reminding us about how little we can really control! Thanks again for your comments.

  12. Thank you for sharing your experience of the River Chelt. It is bizarrely the obscure life blood of the town and surrounding areas. Heaven know why it has been buried. I suppose partly because of the need to build. Unlike other towns and cities that allow their rivers, brooks and streams to be enjoyed by all Cheltenham is famous (locally) for bidding this gem.
    I now feel inspired to explore the river that I have known for most of my life.

  13. Re. Cutting of the banks. It looks so much better left wild and much better for wildlife. There used to be ducks and moorhens nesting near the Geoge Readings estate stretch, but since it has been strimmed every year (until this year) they have disappeared. Also, there were many trout on this stretch. They seem to have gone also. A fish pass was installed on the weir in the small park et Arle . Perhaps they have migrated upstream now they have access. An elver pass was also installed at the same place and on the weir near Waitrose.

    • Disagree about the ducks. We get them every year and the odd moorhen too.

      There have also been people fishing.

      The bank collapse from 2007, has just been made right as the one house was loosing more and more garden. Looks similar to the way the bank was made up by the bridge across to Glynbridge Gardens.

        • It doesn’t happen often but there’s always going to be someone trying it on, through ignorance, intentional or otherwise!
          My son did when much younger.
          When he and his partner in crime caught one, they came running home in a panic!
          I managed to get the hook out and return it to the river!

  14. What a wonderful find! Originally from Cheltenham/Bishops Cleeve and now in Rochdale (where the river was freed!) and spent many happy years as director of the mersey basin trust a charity that worked with local councils, communities groups and schools to discover and cherish their local watercourses with competitions, surveys, lessons etc. Just love the memories and enthusiasm in these posts. So important to keep this love of our streams and rivers alive and celebrate them. Will definitely track this when visiting family and friends – when allowed!

    • Thank you for your kind comments Caroline. Sounds like your time with the Mersey Basin Trust was a great way to nurture love for the river there! Great that Rochdale had the wisdom to free their river!

  15. Hi Rich, what a treasure your work is. I have lived in Glynbridge gardens since the age of 7 in 1974 and can attest from first hand experience how the tjen fetid dyke has improved so much . Never saw fish of any sory as a youngster only as an adult have i seen trout ant other fish and witnessed king fishers and white egrets and heron fishing. A shame that some think its ok to dump their rubbish in it. Great to learn that otters inhabit the river that is a surprise. id only ever seen rats.

    • Thank you Karl, that’s most kind of you. It’s brilliant that the river has been cleaned up as it has and that the wildlife has returned; much of that I think since I wrote the article.

  16. Nice to see this. I spent hours mucking about in the Chelt from 1974 as a boy having moved into Uckington Nov ‘73. Fell in a few times, jumped in a couple of times. Dens, tree houses, watching all the wildlife. Feel sorry for so many kids Today. You don’t have to be interested in it. But just to experience it is so good for the Soul.

  17. Hi Rich. I live near the narrow bridge that connects Hartlebury Way and the London Road via Coffin Lane. Ten years ago I would regularly see Kingfishers on the overhanging branches over a well stocked river from the bridge. I haven’t seen any evidence of fish since then. I am concerned about the apparent increase in volume of the Cheltenham at this point, and conversely its murkiness when not in spate. Residents backing onto the river are more and more complaining about tree branches becoming trapped along its course. Do you know if there is any evidence that these issues are being caused by developments or underdevelopment upstream towards Dowdeswell?
    Enjoy your blog by the way.

    • I live near the stretch of the Chelt that runs behind Glynbridge Gardens, below PE Way. I have seen kingfishers on at least 3 occasions last year. But, there used to be many trout in the river and I used to feed them bread. At times it was like a trout farm! Now I don’t see any fish. Two possible explanations for this. The EA installed a fish pass at the weir in the park by PE Way and the fish may have migrated upstream. Or, otters have eaten them. i’m certain otters use this stretch as I have seen footprints under the bridge at Hayden Road and they have been reported at Sandford Park. Next time I go volunteering with Gloucestershire Wildlife trust, I will ask the experts. We did survey the Chelt water quality in 2013 and it was generally good but “patchy”. Good indicators like mayfly nymphs and other invertebrates, but occasionally evidence of mis-connections where, for example, a household has incorrectly routed its washing machine waste into water run off instead of into the sewage system.

      • Hi Peter,

        I live the other side of the river and while I was walking my dog, just before Christmas, I saw an Otter playing by the drainage outlet, for the last houses on Village Road.

      • Hi Peter
        Not much evidence of Otters on our stretch. I’ll ask around.
        I would be interested in the results of any water quality surveys that may have been done below the Ham?
        Also, if anyone knows what the plans are for the reservoir; which appears to being left to silt up?
        Pat

    • Hi Patrick,

      Thank you for your comments. I’m very glad that Peter and Suzanne have responded because they know far more about the Chelt now than I do – I’m now living in Somerset so am not familiar with how the river is at the moment. I therefore won’t add to their comments.

      Glad you enjoy the blog!

      All the best
      Rich

  18. Just after theFirst World War my late father was taught buy an old Carter that worked on the farm how to tickle The Trout that were then in abundance in the river chelt this was on the opposite side of the river from Barrow I thought this might be of interest to you

  19. Hi Rich,
    Just read some of the posts above about the river Chelt
    I did a short walk from Upper Dowdeswell, & I saw a spring in the the field just below the lane where the footpath goes across the field
    I was inquisitive to know if it was a source of the chelt. & evidently the one I saw was one of the two sources
    Creation can be amazing
    Hope you & family are all well

  20. Hi there , I,came across this blog on the river chelt. I’ve lived in Cheltenham for near 20 yrs. I walk in Sandord park daily. Having gone from watching trout and kingfishers , wildlife has disappeared in the sandford stretch. All the river weed has gone , the bed of the river is just stone covered in brown slime .. it looks very unhealthy . Anyone else noticed this ? Such a shame …. It reminds me of what has happened on the river Wye (see George Mombiot Riverside program)…

    • Hi John. I live near the Chelt downstream of the P. E. Way bridge. There used to be a good population of brown trout, but they don’t seem to be there anymore. I have seen kingfishers during the lock down months and also other rarities such as grey wagtail and Little Egret. (Also heron). There have been signs of otters and fairly recently an otter was seen on the stretch near me.

      The water looks good and clear with plenty of weed patches (ranunculous). A fish pass was installed in a weir upstream. I wondered if the trout have now migrated upstream now they have access. I used to feed the trout and it was like a trout farm at times!

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.