I’ve just come back from a wonderful few days around Land’s End and on the Scillies. As it’s the autumn migration, the area is a hotspot for birds on passage, and thus for – ahem –
twitchers birdwatchers as well.
The greatest wildlife spectacle of the week took place on the passage over to St. Mary’s. I was surveying the ocean for interesting seabirds when I noticed a patch of water looking strange – and a dolphin emerged! It was the first of several dozen that appeared over the next hour: some of them jumped clear of the water before diving back, coming close to the boat, diving under and then re-appearing and jumping in the wake. Others could be seen more distantly towards the horizon. It was an unexpected and spectacular show.
It takes only moments on the islands to realise that they have a climate that’s much more tropical even than the tip of Cornwall, with normal gardens having agaves and other succulents that wouldn’t survive on the main land.
I took a couple of day trips to St. Agnes, an island with a much wilder and more remote air. On Wingletang Down, to the south, there are some wind-blasted rocks that have taken on weird shapes – none more so than the inevitably-named Nag’s Head.
It’s a great place to birdwatch, though. There were some notable rarities – such as a Richard’s pipit which, for some reason, I had to see – and several yellow-browed warblers. It also happened to be the right time for seeing black redstarts: although they breed on the mainland, they do so only in small numbers and thus are quite hard to track down. Just a couple of days previously they had started to pass through, and I saw several while I was there.
One of the delights of birdwatching on the Scillies is that it’s also a very social time – a meeting ground for like-minded people who also think that feathered migrants are worth getting excited about. Arriving at the campsite, the conversation was clearly going to be about the barred warbler (which eluded my attempts to spot it), while at the coastguard cottages it was obviously the rose-coloured starling (which, being the juvenile was very, very brown). On the Tuesday I hung out with Alfie Brown (a Trinity person also on the islands) and James Garside, whose sharp eyesight meant Alfie and I saw birds we might otherwise have missed.
One of the showiest birds was a spotted crake on St Mary’s, which was almost oblivious to the birdwatchers gazing in rapt attention as it negotiated the boggy terrain at the Lower Moors. Attempts to photograph it were thwarted by the darkness of the area, resulting in perfect images of motion blur, so my better shots were of comparatively common birds viewed from a hide at another nearby pool.
On the final afternoon in the Scillies I had to take the early boat back to St Mary’s to catch the Penzance ferry. As we arrived at the harbour, one rather taciturn gentleman suddenly broke into a wry smile and cried out “I don’t want to go!”.